For me trekking is always a tireless experience. Myself along with 20 others from ‘Zhep Adventures’ were out to reach ‘Mantalai Lake’, the origin of river Parvati, 60-70km from Manikaran (near Manali). The group-comprised people of all ages, from 7th standard girls to retired Dean from St Xavier’s college. Along with us we had a local guide ‘Ganga’, a team of 4-5 cooks and about 25 Mules to carry whole of our luggage.After an exhilarating travel of 48 hours we reached Manikaran. The hail was over and we were at the doorstep of heaven. Over next 8 days we were to experience the whims and fancies of Mother Nature. On a fine morning we left Manikaran to reach a village Barsheni by Sumo, about 20Km. This was the starting point of the trek. After chanting Shivaji’s slogans we were on our way. Barsheni village is situated on a confluence of river Tosh and river Parvati. Two valleys meet here continuing into a single valley. Currently a dam is under construction here. Once the dam wall is completed, the white-gushing water of the confluence will mass into ‘V’ shaped calm backwater filling both the valleys. River Parvati would carry on its journey with whatever water left with it. This dam is supposed to generate 800MW of electricity.
We descend into valley crossing the bridge over river Tosh and cruising alongside river Parvati. The walkway was meandering thru tall pine trees leaving all human traces in distance. It was a gradual climb until our next camp Khirganga (2720m). Khirganga would be the last spot with any human residence. Khirganga is not a typical Himalayan village, but a spot with lots of shanty restaurants on the steep slope of mountain. There is a Kartik Swami Temple and a hot water spring. Hot-sulphur water oozes out, giving feel of a boiling ‘Khir’ (milk pudding) and hence the name (this is my revelation). We had a non-veg dinner for our first night in the woods.
On a typical day we were served a bed tea at 6am. About an hour for morning choirs plus breakfast and we were ready for the days walk, about 12Km every day. En-route we used to carry a small sack with essential stuffs. The rest of our luggage, sleeping bags, tents and foodstuffs were carried on Mules. We were served hot lunch on the way. We used to reach the next camp after about 6 Hrs of walk. After reaching the camp, chill out for some time, play cricket, acclimatize, and have a lot of chitchat, 6pm soup and 7pm dinner and 8pm good night.
Next morning we marched towards our second camp Thunda Bhuj (3250m). It was a combination of small ascends and descends passing along the right bank of the river (right; while traveling against the river). It was the sound of the river that never parted us throughout the trek. In a pitch-dark, star-studded night, we could hear a rumbling sound while lying in the tent. While crossing a bridge, it was deafening and rock breaking. While passing behind a huge boulder, it used to dampen momentarily. At the confluence it used to battle to be louder than the other.
Next morning we woke up as a whistle rang exactly at 6am. Today there were 2 tough climbs, each on either side of the river. As we climbed the first, the huge pine trees were back in the valley we were among bushes of violet colored Rhododendron flower. On the other side, the mountain was covered with grasslands; even the small bushes had vanished. It was a remarkable transformation of landscape over the distance of few kilometers. We could see small patches of snow on nearby mountain ridges. Thakur Kuan (3410m) was our next camp. We had 7 tents for 21 trekkers, 1 kitchen tent, 1 slightly bigger tent for 4-5 cooks + guide, the remaining one for 2 porters and open grass for Mules. Small stream for washing and the whole plateau for potty!!
While with a cup of tea, I found myself among a 7th standard discussion, ‘would it be better to call our parents by their names? Or would it be cool to indicate a respect by using deferential phrases?’ One opinion said that there is hardly any intimacy in the second option. Don’t remember the second opinion, as I was struggling with my soaked biscuit in the hot tea. Across the tent, somebody was not in favor of bank-clerk or a professor, being her would be husband. Heart surgeon was preferred. Some 16-year beauty said, “If you want to get married, there is no point in waiting, lets get married at 22, the proper age”.
Now was the fourth day of walking. Everybody woke up with some or the other parts paining. Cold creams, painkillers were exchanging around. I had sunburns on my hands and around neck. Thakur Kuan camp was on left side of the river. Just as we started, we had to cross the river. There was no bridge this time, but a hand pulled cable crossing. The trolley was just sufficient to carry 2-3 people. From one side, somebody had to push the basket along the rope and somebody on the other side had to pull it. This was about 20 meters ride. One by one everybody was on the other side. The path was cascading along grass meadows with gradual ascent. The group was a combination of brisk walkers and slow laggers. After intervals we used to rest waiting for everybody to join together. On an occasional long break, I used to pull out my mouth organ. Request songs used to pore in and I am myself surprised, I used to play most of them. New self-invention, along the way!!
Ody Thach (3645m) was our last camp. This was the most beautiful campsite. It was a flat out plain, size of an ODI ground, surrounded by huge mountains. On one side there was a huge rock face, almost 90 degree extending up to 11 O’clock (Navy term-imagine 11 O’clock-at an angle of small hand). I could not capture this whole mountain within one frame. On the other side there were many snow-clad peaks. It was like sitting in a Himalayan Amphitheatre. The weather was so clear that we could see a proper sunset, until the last ray disappeared. It was an emotional stuff!!
Next day was the summit day. Plan was to reach Mantalai Lake by 12 and return back to Ody Thach well before the night falls. As usual we left the camp around 7:30 in the morning. Weather was beautiful, blue and sunny. Up to now the river was flowing deep in the valley with gushing sound, but now we were almost walking along the bank. Riverbed was wide with smooth flowing water. We were twisting and turning thru the valley, camp had fallen way behind. After 2–3 hours of walk we started climbing, but this time on the snow. We could see the ridge behind which there was a lake. Walking on the snow was a real trouble. One wrong foot and you sucked 1-2 feet deep i
n the snow. Our guide was not sure if we could reach up the top. It was almost 2-3 Km walk thru the snow-clad glaciers. Around 1:30 and I could see the frozen lake spread into the mountains. Melted water was forming into riverbed and that was the origin of the river Parvati. 16 of us could make the top. Imagine this, we climbed all the way up to 4100m, just to reach a valley!!In the high mountains timing is very crucial. After 12, weather can change within moments. We were already late by 1:30 hours. Just 5 min at the top, and the guide ordered the back out. From top we could see 3 more people with in 10 min distance to top. There was no challenge; those 3 had to return back.
If reaching the top was tough, climbing down was a nightmare. Weather had changed. Boots and socks were wet to skin and we had no lunch yet. Chilled wind was blowing straight on face and I had a group of 4 slow walkers to take back to the camp. Sun had gone and it started drizzling. Walking in the fading light, I had only one goal, to see the camp before it is too dark. Nobody had a torch. At about 7pm I could see the tents in the distance, I relieved a sigh. It was Just in Time. Suddenly I remembered that the same 3 people who could not reach the top were lagging way back our group. This point I could do nothing but to wish for their Luck. They reached the camp by 8pm. All were safe, and I had another mountain tale in my repertoire.
Today’s dinner was a special one. Everybody relished noodles with ‘veg-manchurian’ and a ‘sweet Khir’. Our cooks deserved all the praises for their work. They were so humble and literally playing the host. They thought it was their privilege to serve us the best food. The ‘chicken curry’ and ‘egg curry’ was the best, ‘alu paratha’ was awesome and it was a delight to have a ‘fruit salad’ at the height of 4000m. In a chilled night they used to serve ‘hot chocolate’ up to our tents. While cutting a wood for our campfire, one begged the god for committing the sin. They just revered the mountains. They wanted us to relish the nature and wished we would come back. This was the most job-satisfied pack of people I have ever seen.
We followed the same track back to reach Barshni where we had to finish our trek!!
It was an awesome experience over 8 days in Himalayas. My respect for Mountains has bolstered further along with my quest to explore the wildness. I am sure to come back, only to reach the greater heights!!
Enjoy the snaps:
http://picasaweb.google.co.in/mandarsj11/MantalaiTrek#5344101272098162434
Mandar Joshi
Credit Suisse 11 Jun 2009
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