My First Pilgrimge: Pandharpurchi Wari

'Vitthal' alias 'Panduranga', a black god, god of common people, the farmer, cobbler, weaver, just all and everybody. Saint 'Dnyaneshwar' and Saint 'Tukaram' were great followers of 'Vitthal', born in 13th and 16th century respectively. An annual pilgrimage carrying chariots (called 'Palkhi') of 'Dnyaneshwar' and 'Tukaram', starts from 'Alandi and 'Dehu' ('Samadhi' place of both the Saints) walking 250 Km over 15 days, reaches 'Pandharpur', to meet 'Vitthal'. The tradition is going on for ages. The purpose is simple, to get immersed in revering god 'Vitthal', forgetting all sects, clans and castes and achieve a step closer to the ultimate goal of life, 'The Moksha'. Pilgrims are called 'Warkari' and the pilgrimage is called 'Wari'.

I happen to participate in one leg of 'Wari', from Lonand to Taradgaon, some 10km stretch, with 'Saint Dnyaneshwar Maharaj Palkhi'. My intention was clear, to involve in the thrill of the pilgrimage, to be a part of an age-old tradition and to add another experience in my repertoire. Philosophy is always tough when you read it from books. This annual pilgrimage is a practical; you can see the 'Bhakti' and 'Shraddha'; hear 'Mantras' and 'Abhangas'; and sense the 'Moksha'.

Saint 'Dnyaneshwar' was a born intelligent. In those days all Veda and 'Bhagwat Gita' were written in 'Sanskrit'. Knowledge of Sanskrit and hence the 'Veda' was restricted only to 'Brahmins', the upper cast. And hence forbidden to 'Shudras', the lower caste. Saint 'Dnyaneshwar' at the age of 18, translated 'Bhagwat Gita' into Marathi, the common language. Devine knowledge of 'Gita' was now accessible to everybody. The epic is called as 'Dnyaneshwari'. Dnyaneshwar entered into 'Samadhi' at the age of 21, at the place called 'Alandi'.

We started our journey from 'Lonand' at about 2'O clock. There were about 1-2 Lakh 'Warkari'. Synchronization of the crowd was amazing. People were walking in small groups (called 'Dindi). Pilgrims were dancing and walking to the rhythm of 'Mrudangam', chanting 'Shkolas' and singing 'Bhajanas'. No body seems to have cared about the scorching heat. 2 horses were leading in the front. One of them was empty saddled. Saint 'Dnyaneshwar' is believed to be riding that horse. Many people were bare feet. Women were carrying 'Tulashi' (the sacred plant) on there head. I could see many youngsters round about my age.

All pilgrims eagerly wait for this annual feast. They dedicate 15-20 days every year just for the sake of god. Forget all their sorrows and daily choirs, and immerse into 'Namasmarana'. Most of them are peasants and daily wagers. There faith in the god is just unflinching. These days 'Adyatma' is becoming a fashion, and Demigods are becoming richer. We are in a crisis of 'Belief'. This pilgrimage gives out a very simple message, treat everybody equal and visualize god in every person. Just one leg of this pilgrimage has given me a lot of satisfaction and a peace of mind. These memories will linger in my mind throughout the year.


Check out the snaps.
http://picasaweb.google.com/mandarsj11/WariASimpleExperience

Mandar Joshi

Tata Consultancy Services (7 July 2008)