Friday, August 26, 2011

Cycling in Heavens: Tour Leh

Plane took off from Delhi towards its destination in high mountains of Himalayas. Pilot was maneuvering the plane thru thick clouds and snowcapped mountains. It was a close call between wings and high cliffs as the plan descended in a valley, twisting two sharp turns. I was landing in Leh, to cycle high altitude mountain pass – Khardung La, to visit shimmering blue salt lake- Pangong Tso and to speed thru flat plan deserts of Nubra. I would cycle a distance of 410 km and a reach altitude 18000+ ft over 8 days. Well, at least that was the plan!!

Leh, the second largest district in India, is a capital place of Ladakh region in J&K state. Historically this city was an important town on silk rout to pass into Tibet. Today Ladakh is bounded by POK on west and Aksai Chin on Northeastern part. This Land is full of high mountain passes (La in ladakhi), which are open to travel within a short summer of July to September. High Himalayas creates rain shadow over Ladakh, making the region a high altitude desert, excellent place for adventure buffs. We were a group of 23 cyclists, 20 participants and 3 leaders – Nachiket, Sachin and AC. We spent 2 days in Leh (11562 ft*) to acclimatize the weather and the heights. I was feeling breath heave as I tried to walk some 100m outside our hotel on first day. Weather was cold but sunny. Next day I was feeling better but still was not sure if I can cycle in this condition. Cycles (Trek 4300, 8 gears) were distributed to us and we had a short test ride outside the hotel.

Morning 14 August, all set and we embarked on a journey of a lifetime. In line we zoomed thru slopes of Leh city, towards Shakti, our first destination. First break was at ‘Sindhu Darshan’ point. This is the same river that cultivated the entire Indus civilization and gave name to this country the ‘India’. Mr. Vajpayee during his premiership inaugurated the ‘Ghat’ on the banks of Sindhu near Choglamsar. Murky, fast flowing water reminded me of the cloudburst of 2010. We were traveling thru the same area, which was inundated. Excessive agriculture is said to be the cause for increased humidity in the area resulting in a cloudburst.

On the way we halted at Thiksey Monastery. The monastery is situated on a hillock with rooms and temples constructed on the slopes. We were wondering thru corridors, easily 500 years old. The main attraction of the monastery is a two-story statue of Maitreya, constructed in 1970. As per Buddhist myth, Maitreya is said to take birth when ‘Dharma’ seems to be forgotten on the earth. Vibrantly colored statue in a wood carved room was very soothing to eyes in this arid land. Cycling on a flat track ahead, we reached our first camping side at Shakti, 50 km from Leh. Today weather was beautiful, hot and blue, unfortunately the last in next couple of days.

15 August was perhaps the most difficult day of our expedition. We were to cycle from Shakti (13500 ft) to Chang La top (17300 ft) and roll down to Tangtse (13500 ft), a total distance of 71 Km, given the good weather. We started after flagging the Indian tri color and singing the national anthem. Mood was buoyant, though dark clouds hovering in high mountains. Generally the gradient of the road is these high passes is very gradual, it is the altitude that sucks the breath out of the lungs. We were cycling in a line - the ant formation – covering the rider behind from the head winds. About 11 km from Shakti it started drizzling. Roads were wet and temperature plummeted. With weather turning worst, we had to stop cycling. It was a tough decision, especially when everybody was so pumped up. We packed up and were driven to the army base at Zingral (15500 ft) few km away. We huddled in one of the empty army barracks, weather got worst and it started pouring. Fingers, toes, ears were chilled and it was hardly bearable even in the shelter. One of the Jawan’s served us a hot water and tea. Within an hour whole team arrived at Zingral with 2 support vehicle and one Scorpio. Myself, Archana, DP & Tashi got into one tourist vehicle and reached Chang La top. This is the first time I was at 17000+ ft. Pass was already covered with snow. It was as if sitting in freezer. On the top, army serves free tea. We had few quick group snaps and started way down. On the downhill, road was nonexistent, streams of icy glacier water were flowing along. With low visibility, vehicle banged on a stone in a midway. Vehicle stopped, driver jumped out, shock absorbers were broken. We had to get out of the vehicle and to stand in a chilly wind. Archana smartly stopped one Innova and convinced the couple inside to give us a lift up to Tangtse. Tangtse is a beautiful village on a way towards Pangong Tso Lake. Our camp was setup among trees. A stream was flowing alongside. It was still raining and we had to call off the day with barely 10km of cycling.

Next morning, 16 August, we planned to cycle Pangong Tso Lake and camp at Spagmic along the lakeside. We woke up to find us surrounded with snow-clad mountains; it had rained and snowed all the night. Whole camp was muddy and everything was wet. Again we had to abandon the plan to cycle and decided to visit Pangong Tso Lake with our support vehicles. Road was good, as we were cruising along a stream. Weather was still cloudy and no signs of sunshine. Everybody was little disappointed having denied cycling. Just at the sight of the lake, minds cheered and hearts pumped. Lake was crystal clear, meandering thru mountain valleys. Pangong Tso Lake (13500 ft) is a salt-water lake with 1/3rd part in India and 2/3rd part in Chine. The same lake has featured in last scene of movie 3 Idiots. Weather was changing every minute; clouds and sunlight were playing color game. Panorama was painted differently and the Blue colure of the lake started emerging. As we drove to Spagmic, weather has changed completely and sun was out of the clouds. Lake water was ice chilled. As we ventured in ankle deep water, idea to bathe in the lake popped up in one mind. Chetan was first to execute the plan and rest just followed. As I took a deep, head under, a sudden chill rushed thru my body. I was out within seconds.
Back to the camp, we spend the night hoping good weather next morning.

Morning 17 August, clouds were still hovering in the direction of Chang la pass. Today’s plan was to return to Shakti crossing Chang la pass and climb Wari la pass (17216 ft) with support vehicles and cycle down to Agham (10476 ft). As we missed 2 days of cycling, we decided to cycle last 15 km of Wari la pass and roll down to Agham. As we reached our starting point, any thought of ‘no-cycling today’ was just sucking my guts down. I never find so much irritated throughout the trek. At 15 km mark to Wari la top, weather look promising, and cycles were back on road. We started cycling at height around 15000 ft. Road was good and gradient was gradual. I was gearing slowly around winding curves. Road was looping around the mountain as if a large horizontal loop was lying around the mountain belly. As I gained altitude, I started exhausting very fast, I was stopping at every 200m or so. Black top road was nonexistent and tarmac was hardly seen. At places it was impossible to cycle as I dragged my cycle out thru potholes and sandstones. Last few meters, I felt very much exhausted and breathless. With headache and cold, the altitude was taking its toll. I dragged on and made it to the top. Ranjit, Sagar & myself were first to reach the top. It was a sort of an accomplishment of the expedition until now. Unfortunately there was no signboard at the top and hence no proof to frame our achievement. Total 11 cyclist climbed to the top, Man of the climb was surely Jaydeep, who climbed the top in spite of suffering altitude sickness for first two days.

After spending half an hour on the top, we started rolling down. If climbing was tough, rolling down was treacherous. As you gain speed on slopes, fingers become cold and num and it is difficult to break, there is a danger to skid or puncture the tyres. Roads were full of sand, fallen rocks and streams of ice-chilled water. From Wari la top (17216 ft) it was 37 km descend to village Agham (10476 ft) – altitude wise 2km of sheer vertical drop. Valleys were ever deepening, as if we were descending into hell. It was evening time and sunrays were peeping thru mountain gaps. A great natural spectacle was unfolding if front. We spend the night at a very beautiful campsite in village Agham. This was the first star-studded night of the tour.

Whenever you travel in Himalayas, not only the destination but also the en route journey is something to be relished. Next stop was village Sumur and en route journey was awesomely special. Today 18 August, we were to enter Nubra valley. Just as we left Agham, we were greeted by a huge expanse of river Shyok. The road along the banks of the river was flat and black top. I put in high gears and I break out from the group. Ranjit followed behind, Nachiket & AC joined in. 4 of us were paddling in huddle at high speed, with wheels just inches apart. After about 4-5 km, I gave up. I could never know where Nachiket & AC disappeared.

Boarder Road Organization, under Project Himank has developed road infrastructure in region of Ladakh and Siachin. The “Mountain Tamers” are maintaining roads in world highest passes and helping to keep supplies to army establishments stationed on the boarders. Amazing quotes and sign stones will accompany you throughout the journey. Surprisingly I could hardly see any accident vehicle on these dizzying heights throughout the tour. Hats off to all Himankites for their supreme sacrifice while serving the duty to the nation.

Today was an easy day & we reached Sumur camp with high spirits. Sumur was a superb campsite; we were to stay here for next 2 days. In the evening we went to Panamic to see hot springs. Road along Nubra river was awesome but the place was pathetic. I have seen a lot better hot springs spots than Panamic. This was indeed the north most point of our tour.

Next Morning 19 August, we cycled to Hunder – the high altitude desert. The road from Sumer to village Tirith was flat and fast. After crossing bridge on river Shyok, we took right turn towards Hunder. At the end of a flat stretch, there was a speed climb. Thereafter the road slopes down into Diskit. Diskit in a main village in Nubra valley and has a Monastery. Hunder is about 8 km from Diskit. On the way, silver-shimmering sand and sand dunes indicated landscape change. Everybody was excited to locate camels in the distance. This is probably the only place where you can see snow peaks, rivers and sand dunes all together. Here you can ride few surviving Bactrian Camels in the world. The camels have double hump instead of single hump as most of us know of. 15 Minutes camel ride for 150 bucks was a special experience. 16 km from Hunder, military is constructing an airstrip at a village Thoise.
We returned to Sumer for Lunch. We spent the evening strolling in village Sumer, jumping in any backyard and picking apples and apricots.

Last 2 days of cycling remaining and we were at ease with altitude and weather. Everybody was getting gelled with the group. Lunch laughter’s in common tent were transforming into heated debates at dinner tables. Mood was relaxed, gossips and storytelling was all part of the day. I was enjoying every bit of it.

20 August, we were to cycle from Sumer to Khalsar (10060 ft) and climb to village Khardung (14730 ft) at the base of Khardung La pass on north side. This was a prelude to the Big Day climb to Khardung La tomorrow. Everybody geared up to finish 30 Km climb to Khardung village. We started at 6am in the morning and amazingly everybody finished before 12.

Final day of the tour and the only mission of the day was to climb Khardung La (18380 ft), one of the highest moterable road in the world. To perform on this particular day, we had practiced for last several months. The stakes were high and everybody had an individual objective to achieve. Our crew led by Sonam & Tashi flagged off the Big Day at 6:10 am. First destination was to reach North Pullu (16000 ft) at 20km. I was rolling slowly but gradually, gearing with 1-3, 1-4 combination. Weather was sunny but still I could feel the chill. I reached North Pullu at 8 am, had a light breakfast, and was on a way to remaining 13 Km to K-Top. From this point onwards road was bad and it kept deteriorating. Passing tourist were cheering and clapping. Even as I reached 17000+ heights, I was not feeling breathless, but my legs were giving up. I could see the top in a distance, but it seemed the road was unending. I set small targets and just started thinking about the next turn. Next turn never came; it felt as if I was climbing in heavens. As I reached last stretch, I kept pedaling in one of the most treacherous road conditions. Oncoming vehicles were pushing me to the valley side; I was almost cycling on the edge of the road. Few more turns and I was right in the pass, to the highest altitude I ever been!!

K-top was crowded with tourist vehicles and Army convoys. I made to the top at 11:10am, exact 5hr time for 32 km of climb from Khardung. Atul had a sub 5Hr finish. He looked unstoppable. Ranjit followed after 10 min. We clicked snaps and bought some souvenirs. View was amazing as a looked down from the top. It made me forget all the sweat and toil. Amazingly all-23 participants cycled to the top, a great achievement as a group. For me, goal was achieved and the task finished. I rolled down the slopes, dreaming new heights and destinations!!

Thanks
Mandar Joshi
+91-9637527026

Please find the Link to access the Photo Tour, hope you will enjoy:
https://picasaweb.google.com/mandarsj11/CyclingInHeavensTourInLeh
Thanks to all Snappers: Chetan Khare, Anand Kelkar, Durgaprasad Pawar, Ranjit Gadgil, Ratnakar, Ravi Ranade, Sagar Kanade, Srinivas Kulkarni.